The Square Table

Tarpon Springs

by Dina Di Maio

When one thinks of things to do near Tampa, Busch Gardens, the Dali Museum, and the beautiful beaches of Clearwater come to mind. But what most tourists don’t know is that there’s a mythical paradise less than an hour away in the idyllic town of Tarpon Springs, named after the tarpon fish found off the Gulf coast. The town is long known for its sponge diving history but its Greek settlers, who came at the turn of the last century, made the town what it is today. And what it is today is a town with a lot of local color, mostly blue and white. Stroll the main street, Dodecanese, down in the area known as "the sponge docks" where shops abound. Sure, it’s a bit kitschy in this area of town, but it’s also a thriving Greek community. Of course, the main item for sale in this sponge diving town is the sponge, in every shape and size. You can tour the Spongeorama [510 Dodecanese Blvd., 813-942-3771] and see the history of sponge diving at the museum and visit the largest sponge shop, the Sponge Factory. Other shops sell Greek goods, like traditional costumes and T-shirts with Greek writing on them, and a smattering of tourist chatchki. Who can resist the natural olive oil and olive oil soaps so popular here? You can’t miss the brightly pink painted Getaguru [777 Dodecanese Blvd., (727) 937-8193, www.getaguru.som] for handmade olive oil soaps. Lori’s Soap and Sponge Market [751 Dodecanese Blvd., (727) 938-4171, www.lorissoapandsponges.com] specializes in handmade olive oil and goat’s milk soaps as well as sponges. A cool shop is the Global Candle Gallery, Inc. [830 Dodecanese Blvd., (727) 938-1437] where artists make candles before your eyes. The candles are glowing round orbs with designs such as flamingos or alligators to flowers and the Florida Gators. You name your passion, Global Candle has a candle with that design on it—and if not, they can make it.

What would a visit to a Greek village be without food? There are many restaurants to choose from where one can try numerous staples from gyros and souvlaki to mousaka and pastitsio. At Hellas Restaurant, [785 Dodecanese Boulevard, (727) 934-8400, 1-800-HELLAS-6], the dining area is awash with colorful murals of Greek fishing villages half a world away. But you wouldn’t know that as friendly Greek waiters whisk you to your table. The assorted cold plate appetizer is a must, featuring delicious octopus and tzatziki. Of course, a meal at Hellas would not be complete without a trip next door to its accompanying bakery. Sip some Greek coffee and stare into the lighted case of sweet perfections—from baklava to other lesser-known Greek pastries traditionally-made with filo, honey, custard and nuts.

Across the street from the shops and eateries are the sponge docks. Take a tour of the Anclote River and the bayou. On a sunny day, riding the waters is perfect. Mangrove trees cluster together, their roots visible just above the surface of the water. Various Floridian birdlife nests in these trees. The blue heron reigns in this area. Osprey and their nests can also be spotted. Though it can’t be predicted what wildlife will be seen on one of these boat tours, there is a chance of seeing dolphins and manatees, though the latter are often tough to see (that’s why so many boats hit them). Boat trips like this are plentiful in Florida, but the area has natural, unspoiled scenery and wildlife, including a bald patch of sand where birds rest.

Besides the sponge docks, downtown Tarpon Springs has antique shops, art galleries and restaurants, and St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral. So the next time you’re in the Gulf Coast, try something a little different. Opah! You’ll be glad you did.