It was a sunny Saturday morning as we drove through the tiny historical town of Koloa on the island of Kauai.  It was crawling with tourists searching for souvenir t-shirts and knick-knacks to commemorate their vacations.  In front of the old Hawaiian grocery store on the main street sat a small, old, leathered-skinned Asian man.  He must have been at least 80 years old. His aged body was twisted and deformed leaving him unable to stand without some support. He steadied himself with a long ornately carved walking stick as he slowly shuffled along the uneven wooden sidewalk in a pair of shabby "slippas".  For a moment, I felt like I had been transported back in time, back before the tourists when life on Kauai was all about the sugar cane and the ‘ohana - family. I could picture the idyllic romantic days of life in Hawaii that I had envisioned before I moved here. I watch as the town's elder smiled a toothless grin and his shaky hand reached to shield his eyes from the bright Hawaiian sun.  As he turned to cross the street I noticed the message on his t-shirt - "Fuck Milk, Got Beer?"  Such is life on Kauai.